Tyler Hicks/The New York Times Elephants in the Samburu reserve in Kenya. ARCHER’S POST, Kenya — Juli...
Tyler Hicks/The New York Times
ARCHER’S POST, Kenya
— Julius Lokinyi was one of the most notorious poachers in this part of
Kenya, accused of single-handedly killing as many as 100 elephants and
selling the tusks by the side of the road in the dead of night, pumping
vast amounts of ivory into a shadowy global underground trade.
But after being hounded, shamed, browbeaten and finally persuaded by his
elders, he recently made a remarkable transformation. Elephants, he has
come to believe, are actually worth more alive than dead, because of
the tourists they attract. So Mr. Lokinyi stopped poaching and joined a
grass-roots squad of rangers — essentially a conservation militia — to
protect the wildlife he once slaughtered.
Nowadays he gets up at dawn, slurps down a cup of sugary tea, tightens
his combat boots and marches off with other villagers, some who had
never picked up a gun before and are little more than volunteers, to
fight poachers.
“We got to protect the elephants,” said Mr. Lokinyi, whose hooded eyes now glow with the zeal of a convert.
From Tanzania to Cameroon, tens of thousands of elephants are being
poached each year, more than at any time in decades, because of Asia’s soaring demand for ivory.
Nothing seems to be stopping it, including deploying national armies,
and the bullet-riddled carcasses keep stacking up. Scientists say that
at this rate, African elephants could soon go the way of the wild
American bison.
But in this stretch of northern Kenya, destitute villagers have seized
upon an unconventional solution that, if replicated elsewhere, could be
the key to saving thousands of elephants across Africa, conservationists
say. In a growing number of communities here, people are so eager, even
desperate, to protect their wildlife that civilians with no military
experience are banding together, grabbing shotguns and G3 assault rifles
and risking their lives to confront heavily armed poaching gangs.
It is essentially a militarized neighborhood watch, with loping,
6-foot-6 former herdsmen acting as the block captains, and the block
being miles and miles of zebra-studded bush. These citizen-rangers are
not doing this out of altruism or some undying love for pachyderms. They
do it because in Kenya, perhaps more than just about anywhere else,
wildlife means tourists, and tourists mean dollars — a lot of dollars.
It is not unusual here for a floppy-hatted visitor to drop $700 a night
to sleep in a tent and absorb the sights, sounds and musky smells of
wondrous game. Much of that money is contractually bound to go directly
to impoverished local communities, which use it for everything from
pumping water to college scholarships, giving them a clear financial
stake in preserving wildlife. The safari business is a pillar of the
Kenyan economy, generating more than a billion dollars a year and nearly
500,000 jobs: cooks, cleaners, bead-stringers, safari guides, bush
pilots, even accountants to tally the proceeds.
Surprisingly, many jobs in the safari industry can pay as much as
poaching. Though the ivory trade may seem lucrative, it is often like
the Somali pirate business model, with the entry-level hijacker getting
just a minuscule cut of the million-dollar ransoms.
While a pound of ivory can fetch $1,000 on the streets of Beijing, Mr.
Lokinyi, despite his lengthy poaching résumé, was broke, making it
easier to lure him out of the business.
Villagers are also turning against poachers because the illegal wildlife
trade fuels crime, corruption, instability and intercommunal fighting.
Here in northern Kenya, poachers are diversifying into stealing
livestock, printing counterfeit money and sometimes holding up tourists.
Some are even buying assault rifles used in ethnic conflicts.
The conservation militias are often the only security forces around, so
they have become de facto 911 squads, rushing off to all sorts of
emergencies in areas too remote for the police to quickly gain access to
and often getting into shootouts with poachers and bandits.
“This isn’t just about animals,” said Paul Elkan, a director at the Wildlife Conservation Society,
who is trying to set up community ranger squads in South Sudan modeled
on the Kenyan template. “It’s about security, conflict reconciliation,
even nation building.”
The rangers tend to be hardened and uneducated, drawn from different
ethnic groups and the surplus of unemployed youth. Gabriel Lesoipa was a
goat herder; Joseph Lopeiyok, a cattle rustler; John Pameri won his
coveted spot because he was fast — at the time he was selected, the
first entry requirement was a grueling 11-mile race.
Many are considered warriors in their communities, experts in so-called
bushcraft from years of grazing cattle and goats across the thorny
savanna — and defending them against armed raiders. They can follow
faint footprints across long, thirsty distances and instantly intuit
when someone has trespassed on their land.
Sursa: The New York Times
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